Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes

Yesterday I began my volunteer work with "English Opens Doors," a program created by the chilean ministry of education. Native english speakers (such as university exchange students) are assigned to chilean public schools to help the English teachers with their classes. I'm going to be helping out between 4 and 5 hours each week on Thursday mornings.

So I woke up at 6:30 yesterday so I could get to the school around 8:15 and be able to talk to the teacher before she started classes at 8:30. I left my apartment at 7:30, and went searching for the first bus stop. 15 minutes later, and after asking about 5 people, I got there. To catch the second bus, I went searching for stop #9, but couldn't find it anywhere. I spent probably about 20 minutes searching for this imaginary stop, and when I decided to take out my notebook where I wrote down the directions to show someone where I was going, I unfortunately realized that with the route I was taking, I was actually looking for stop 3, which I had past by at least twice. I ran back to that stop, and waited for the bus. At this point it was 8:30. I walk into the highschool right across the street from the bus stop, and go to the office. Someone walks me to the classroom, and I introduce myself to the teacher saying that we had talked on the phone the night before. She doesn't recognize me. Her name is Cecilia, I'm actually looking for Maria Luisa. Turns out i'm at the wrong high school. Oops. The good news though, is that the correct high school is just next door. I get to the right high school, and find out the woman I talked to isn't here today. So I get walked to another class. By 9, I finally make it to where I was supposed to be.

I helped with two classes of 1st years (probably 13/14 years old), and it was pretty cool because the teacher kind of let me work with the class (she gave the things to do of course.) I played about 50 games of simon says. We wrote all the names of body parts in english and in spanish, and also added some verbs such as to laugh, to cry, to dance. I've always known that english is difficult to learn and pronounce, but being in the classroom I actually got to experience it firsthand. For instance, the sound "th" is really difficult.  The word "mouth"was hard to understand. The word knees, not only is the fact that it starts with a silent "k" make it complicated, but while "e" in spanish is "eh" and "i" makes the ee sound (as in knees). In my second class, they asked how to say "mejilla" which is cheek, and "dientes" which is teeth. For me, the words don't sound very similar, but for the kids, the couldn't hear the difference, which for me was really interesting.  I tried exaggerating the sounds, but in the end decided to avoid both words in general. They recognized the words shoulder and back really easily, but knees and eyes were a lot more difficult. We ended the class singing (ended up with me singing) the song "Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes" about 5 times. Both classes were relatively well behaved, especially since I had been warned that they usually didn't behave at all. It was probably because I was new. Although I did get whistled at in the hallway at some kids at the back of the class told me they loved me, I think it's the fact that I'm younger than most of the teachers and don't look very chilean. Those things don't bother me as much as they used to, and overall the kids seemed nice, and were enthusiastic about playing simon says with me, which made everything a lot easier.

If anyone knows of any english rhymes or games good for beginner beginner english, let me know! It seemed like she expected me to come prepared with something yesterday, and I had not, so maybe it'd be a good idea to think of some things for next week.

Fiestas Patrias!

Happy (chilean) independence day!! September 18th was the celebration of the 199th anniversary of Chilean Independence, and we are now in the 200th year! Independence day, Fiestas Patrias, is a really big deal here. Not that July 4th isn't a big deal, but I think the fact that we're in summer vacation makes it not as exciting all the time. Most of the Chilean schools and Universities had all of last week as vacation because of fiestas patrias. I, unfortunately, had an exam last Wednesday, but a 4 day weekend wasn't that bad.

Wednesday after class we went to the 'festival de la chilenidad' at the University. They had 3 legged races, Cueca dancing competitions, and a lot of food. We didn't participate in any of the activities, but it was beautiful outside, so it was nice to sit and relax. On Thursday I went with one of my friends to the fonda in Providencia, which was kind of like a town fair. They had them all over Chile starting on the 17th. We watched Cueca dancing competitions, walked around a lot of different artisan booths, and of course ate a lot of food. My host mom told me that people usally gain about 3 kilos (~6 lbs?) during fiestas patrias, I hope that was not that case with me...but I can see how that could happen. At this fonda we ate chorripan, which is very common to eat on Fiestas Patrias, I think it's kind of like a sausage? Really good! We ate churros filled with manjar, which was delicious, and also chocolate covered fruit. fruit=healthy right? It's also common to drink chicha, which is a kind of wine, or something called borgeño (I'm not sure exactly of the name) which is white wine with peaches. After wandering this fonda for a couple of hours, we went over to the moneda, which is the main government building of Chile. We had heard there was something going on for the bicentennial, but weren't quite sure. We exit the metro station, and there was a huge concert going on. I'm horrible with  gauging numbers, but I want to say about 6 thousand people? There were all different chilean music groups playing. I didn't really know any of them, but everyone around me was really excited, so we jumped around and tried to sing some songs...Around 10:00 Bachelet (Chile's president) came to the concert which was pretty cool.  This concert was celebrating the beginning of Chile's 200th year...I cannot even imagine what this country is going to be like for fiestas patrias next year...absolutly nuts.

Friday through Sunday I spent at my host family's parcela, which I guess is kind-of like their country house, about an hour outside of the city.  It was really nice to get out the city for the a while. The parcela was really beautiful and relaxing.  We did a lot of eating, which was not at all surprising, and was delicious. We ate a huge lunch around 2:00, and then I talked for a while with some more people in my host family. The idea that at 18 we go and live by ourselves to go the college shocks people here...every time. I've found people are also really interested in what I think about familial relationships. The more I spend time with people down here, I've found that we're probably a lot more similar than we think. While we don't  have sit-down dinners/lunches every week, and I go to school 2 hours in plane from my house, I don't think that means that my relationship with my family is weaker because of this, it may even make it stronger.

            

me with my host mom and host aunt

After lunch, we made empanadas. While this time it wasn't nearly as eventful (no fires or anything), it was a lot of fun. We made about 45 empanadas with meat, onions, a piece of hardboiled egg, olive and a raisin. We put all the empanadas in the brick oven outside, and soon enough they were ready. With 14 people, we had no problem eating all of them. We didn't have dinner, but the empanadas were more than filling. After a while, most of the adults went to bed and I stayed up with my host siblings and their friends, and some how managed to stay up until about 3, which in Chile, of course is really early.

Saturday, after eating a huge lunch, it was kind of like paella, (all different types of meat, and rice, and in one of the hugest pans I have ever seem), we flew kites outside. I cannot remember the last time I flew a kite. It was so nice out, it was perfect weather for being outside and relaxing. We didn't eat dinner, but more of an 'once' with pan amasada (spelling?) homemade bread that I helped make!, with piebre, which is like salsa, avacado, and tea/coffee. It definitely sounds like all we did was eat...which is not true, but the food is definitely worth mentioning. That night I again hung out with my host siblings, and managed to stay up until 5am...a lot more respectable.

host cousin, me, host sister,

host brother and friends

Today we managed to wake up just in time for a  2pm lunch of cazuela (I'm pretty sure i've already mentioned this) but it's a soup with meat, potatoes and a portion of corn-on-the-cob. Really delicious, and I've also figured out a less awkward way to eat corn on the cob out of a soup, which is exciting. After lunch we packed up and came back home. All in all, a really nice weekend, and the fact that I don't really have much work to do makes it that much better.

Bought some honey at the fonda, maybe it's time for some apples and honey? shana tova everyone! (a little late? I think it's okay...)

this week: a talk about chilean folklore, cueca dancing with host moms, a lot more food? sounds good. until next time!

September 11th

September 11th takes on a whole new meaning here. In the US we remember 9/11 as the day when the twin towers fell. Every year since then we've thought of this day a little differently. We commemorate the day with a moment of silence.  Today it's 8 years, and I can't believe it's already been so long,  I still can remember exactly where I was in 2001.

Today, September 11th in Chile, I was told that after 5pm I could not leave the house, hence, I'm here in my room on a Friday night. When I mentioned this to family or friends, they were surprised that people in Chile were so moved by the events of our 9/11. But it's not that. Along with being the 8th year anniversary of the day the twin towers fell, today is the 36th anniversary of the coup d'etat and the beginning of Pinochet's almost 17 year rule over Chile. Today marks a day of protests, some peaceful, others not so much.  The school libraries closed at 4:30, and many other stores closed early as well.  One of my classes was cancelled this whole week because the students in my department at la universidad de Chile tend to be extremely politically active.  I was told to avoid certain neighborhoods altogether today, and after 5pm was told not to gather in public places.  My whole family is home tonight, which is something that rarely happens on a weekend night.

I've looked at Chilean newspapers and read about protests in many places that I'm familiar with, and read that at least one person has died in the commotion. I've seen pictures as well, all of protests with banners and photos of Former President Allende, with messages like 'Allende vive' (live Allende), and banners from the socialist party.

It's obvious that this issue is a very sensitive subject, and that this type of activity on the 11th is something that will continue. I was out this morning and afternoon and nothing seemed out of the ordinary, but apparently everything happens around this time. Better that I'm home. Get a good night sleep and be ready for things to resume back to normal tomorrow?

San Pedro de Atamcamaaa!

I just wrote an extremely long blog entry which just got erased, so you'll all have to bear with me as I try to re-write this all again...

San Pedro de Atacama is by far my favorite place I have visited in Chile, and is one of the coolest places I have ever visited. In three days we saw some many things, but this was probably because it was a group trip, meaning everything was already planned and paid for. The trip almost felt 'free'! I didn't have to pay for anything, it was great (thanks mom and dad)!

We got to Calama, the closest city to San Pedro that has an airport, at around 6:30 Thursday night. It was a really tiny airport. Our bags came fast and our guides met us right outside. The ride to San Pedro was about 1 1/2 hours long. The rides weren't that great, and our driver wasn't stellar, but we did make it in one piece! We dropped our stuff of at our hotel/hostel, which was a lot nicer than anything we would have ever stayed in if we were here on our own, and went off to dinner. A great meal, and a celebratory pisco sour and we were on our way!

We woke up at 7:30 Friday morning and got right down to business. We first went to a really pretty laguna with a lot of flamingos. There are a lot of different types of flamingos, a lot of who only live at certain altitudes. San Pedro is about 2000 meters above sea-level? I'm kind of making that up, but I know wSan Pedro de Atacama is by far my favorite place I have visited in Chile, and is one of the coolest places I have ever visited. In three days we saw some many things, but this was probably because it was a group trip, meaning everything was already planned and paid for. The trip almost felt 'free'! I didn't have to pay for anything, it was great (thanks mom and dad) e were high up. Surrounding this laguna, and almost all of San Pedro are a lot of volcanoes. Our guide constantly tested us on all the names of the volcanoes, and I can't remember anything except for the fact that one of the volcanoes is 5916 meters high...We next went to a really beautiful valley with a very small "river" and some llamas.

After a big lunch (we never went hungry), we went to see some what I thought were the prettiest parts of San Pedro. First was valley de la muerte (death valley). There is a certain reason for it's name, but all I can remember our tour guide saying is something about tourists falling over the edge...We next drove to this rock called '3 Marias' which was shaped completely by the wind. It's supposed to look like women, but I didn't think it looked much like anything. After walking through some caverns, we made it to Valle de la luna (moon valley) just to watch the sun set and the moon rise. It was absolutely beautiful. The sun turned sand turned different colors, and being so high up we had a really great view. I don't think the pictures do it justice. The moon was so huge,  only a few other times has it looked so close.

                                                            valle de la muerte

                                                             valle de la luna

The next day we woke up at 4:00 to go to the geisers.  I cannot remember the last time I woke up that early. We drove two hours, and up to 4200meters to get to the geysers. It was absolutely freezing up there. At the time we got there, I think it was about 10 degrees. With 3 pairs of pants, 2 pairs of socks, jackets, hat, scarf, and gloves, I still couldn't feel my toes or fingers.  It is best to go early in the morning because the geysers are clear. They 'smoke' better (but it's not really smoke). We walked around the geyers, and then went to the 'big geyser' which also a pool you could go in. It  wasn't exactly hot, but more like a lukewarm bath with an occasional burning hot current. Never have I taken of so many layers to find myself in a bathingsuit. Next stop, a small village called Machuca, with a population of about 5 people, but with a lot of visiting tourists. Their specialty is llama meat, and it was quite good! We made it to the thermal baths before noon. It was quite the productive morning!  It was really nice to relax in these baths. It finally got warm out, so we were able to enjoy the pools without freezing. After another big lunch- i think salmon, funny I've eaten more salmon in the desert than anywhere else, we went back to the hostel for a nice siesta.

That night was the Chile-Venezuela fútbol game, one of the games for entrance into the world cup 2010, so we decided to go to a bar/cafe to watch. This place had the biggest empanadas I had ever seen. Anyway, we watched the game with a lot of Chileans which was really cool. They got really into it and so did we. Chile completely dominated the game, but it the score didn't show it. The game ended up tied 2-2, so I guess it's better they didn't lose.  The Chilenos didn't seem too bummed, so what do we do once the game ends? dance of course.  A little bit of cueca, some jumping, a little bit of everything.  Every once and a while we would have to sit down and be quiet because live music and parties are illegal. When the police came around we'd have to sit around and pretend we were just eating. The whole thing was pretty funny. We spent a lot of time dancing which was really fun.

Sunday morning we did my favorite activity of the trip: sandboarding. It's like snowboarding down a huge sand dune. We climbed up a super high sand dune, waxed a wooden tablet, velcroed our feet in, and then slid down.  When our guide waxed the board, I literally went flying.  It was scary at first, and I think everytime I went down the dune I screamed, but it was still fun. My director took a lot of pictures so as of right now I don't have them, but I hope to get them soon.  We were at the sand dune for about an hour and half, and I progressively got better. But even by the end I think I was better at falling, but I had some pretty great falls... In the afternoon we went to two different archaeological ruins, which were both really interesting, and so crazy to think that these ruins were built so long ago and are still here. Our last dinner was at our first non-touristy restaurant, which had really great tacos. I know it was non touristy because as we walked in, it was clear that the men had not seen many foreigners. I think we were stared at the entire meal.

It was sadly time to go...sorry that this was extremely long. It will definitely be difficult to live up to this weekend...

Another update: watched Chile-Brazil fútbol game tonight (look at me becoming such a soccer fan!) but they lost, too bad.

a weekend of fútbol, jazz, y politics

Yesterday I went to my first soccer game! Two of my friends and I went with this group of around 15 people, all of whom I didn't know, but were all nice and fun anyway.  The game was at the estadio nacional, which is one of the major stadims in Santiago (i think). The game was Universidad Católica vs. Colo Colo, two Chilean professional teams. What is interesting about the teams is that the fan base is largely related to social classes. Fans of Universidad Católica are mostly upper class, fans of La U, or Universidad de Chile, are mostly middle class, and fans of Colo Colo are more lower class. Even though 2 of the 3 teams are named after Universities, the players are not university players. I think, however, that the teams are owned by the universities. Colo Colo, which is  supposed to be more like the team that represents Chile  (Colo Colo was a Mapuche (indigenous peoples in the Southern Chile) chief), is owned by Piñera, who is the presidential candidate who represents the right.  Apparently he owns a lot of other stuff as well (television channels etc..,) but I'm actually going to talk about politics a little bit later...
So at this soccer game, we sat on the Colo Colo side, which had a lot more people.  While I really don't understand much about soccer (that might even be an understatement) the game was really fun. The first half was a bit dull, but in the second half it was a lot more active and everyone was getting more excited and anxious. The teams had coordinated cheers, and it felt like I was back at sleepaway camp again.  Coming from Newton South High School, with zero athletic spirit, and the coming to WashU with generally minimal school spirit, I've never really known what it's like to be in a place that appreciates sports or gets excited to watch them, so this was really fun. Colo Colo ended up losing, 1-2. I also heard that they have the most money and buy the best players, but never win...
They only let out one side at a time so that the there aren't any fights.  We took a micro (public bus) back from the stadium and there were Colo Colo fans on the bus, banging on the sides of the bus and waving banners and flags out the windows, considering the fact that there were both Colo Colo and Católica fans on the bus, and there we no fights, I'd call the day a success.

Saturday night I went to see a jazz concert. The singer was the cousin of my friend's housemate. She had a really good voice, and sang in English, Spanish, French, Italian and German. I think she's generally a jazz singer but along with some jazz was some Beyonce and of course, Michael Jackson. While riding the metro last week, I saw a flyer for a Michael Jackson Tribute party...it never gets old does it? We went dancing afterwards at this bar/club that from the outside looked like nothing. If I hadn't been with girls who had been to this place before I would have walked right past it.  It was extremely crowded and the music was okay, but it was still a lot of fun.

Yesterday at lunch was started talking about politics. The Chilean presidential primary is in December, and the deadline to register to vote is in the next two weeks. I've seen posters all over the metro stations reminding people to vote, and in Chile it's mandatory.  Apparently if you don't vote you have to show some sort of medical note or have another valid excuse...I wonder what would happen if voting was mandatory in the US?
If one candidate wins more than 50% of the election in December, they are automatically president, but my host sister said that rarely happens so there's usually the second round in January.  The three presidential candidates are
*Piñera, who I mentioned before, who represents the right,
*Frei, who was president 8 years ago,  and is from the Concertacion, (endorsed by Bachelet, the current president) which is more left and socialist, and then
*Ominami who broke off from the Socialist party and is running more as an independent.

It's really interesting to listen to my host family talk about politics.  I think we have differences in out political beliefs, but it's so fascinating to hear the other points of view. I'm excited to see how everything plays out in the next couple of months. Apparently there's a Piñera rally coming up soon, and maybe some debates/ question and answer sessions with the candidates.

On a side note, plans to Buenos Aires are set! We have flights and a hostel, and are off for 5 days at the beginning of October. Calling Argentina was an adventure, seeing as every country and city has it's own code it's very confusing to know which numbers you have to use, especially since it depends whether you use a landline or cellphone. I attempted to call the number of the hostel about 5 times, each time I found myself listening to the lovely recording of the woman who told me that I'd dialed a nonexistent number.  It's a voice I got to know very well, but since I finally got the hang of making phone calls in Chile, I hadn't heard her voice in a while.  It was good to hear it again. But I finally got through, and the hostel told me I had to book everything online...But now I know how to dial Argentina!

This weekend we're off to San Pedro de Atacama, which is a desert up north which is supposed to be beautiful. We'll be seeing sandunes, geisers, and Sandboarding...I have no idea what it is, but can't wait!

Empanadas & Cueca

Saturday night: empanada and cueca dancing.  I managed to cut onions without crying and cut meat into tiny pieces, even though I was pretty incompetent with the knife. The woman showing us how to make empanadas mixed together a bunch of ingredients and poured about 3 pounds of flour on the counter. Add some eggs, sugar, yeast, water, and mush together.
BUT  BE CAREFUL: pouring hot water into a pot of oil is a bad idea.  It will cause a huge fire and will cause all observers to run in the opposite direction of the fire, which coincidentally happens to a corner with a door we don't notice. Definitely the biggest fire I have ever been close to.
After we all resurfaced from the corner of the kitchen, there was enough dough to make about 1000 empanadas. We kneaded the dough, and rolled it into the size of mini pizza pies, reminding me of when Bertucci's pizza gave out free dough for kids to play with.
We made empanadas de pino which have meat, onion, a piece of a hard boiled egg, and one olive (two is as lucky as finding a four-leaf clover) and another type of empanada with tomato, cheese and basil. Aside the fact that some of my empanadas were juicing out the sides, i'd say I did a pretty good job. We also made fried shrimp and cheese  empanadas. To cut out the shape we used the edge of a glass, and with this I was not so successful. We of course had to eat a substantial amount of our creations before off to our next adventure: cueca.

I wish I had pictures of this adventure. We went to, a guess it was a restaurant, where they have a band and a dance floor to dance cueca, a dance which I mentioned before is supposed to imitate a rooster courting a hen. Evelyn, our program director found people at the next table over to "teach" us cueca, and once we had our handkerchiefs we were ready to go. I of course had to be the first person to dance, and awkwardly waved my handkerchief in the air jump-hopping in circles. Sometimes I'd spin to switch things up... While there is a real technique to cueca, obviously I have no idea how it is actually done.
After many hours of "dancing" (it was lucky I had my handkerchief or otherwise I would have looked even dumber,) and an extremely expensive taxi ride, I ended up home around 4:30 am. not a bad saturday night.

I can't believe time is flying by so fast...it's monday, and then before I know it, it's already Friday and I can't remember how I spend my time. I've been in class for 3 full weeks, yet it doesn't even feel like i'm in class. While I'm not complaining that I don't have work to do all the time, i've always associated not-summer-time with school, and with school comes studying and the library. For most of my classes here, we have a lot of suggested reading, and there is so much that I have the option of reading, but don't know which ones are actually worth reading. In addition, i'm not being tested on what I read, which always makes it that much harder to do the reading. Most of my classes have one final project, or two exams, so while there will be weeks where I have a lot to do, it seems like most weeks I can read as much or as little as I want, something which I am definitely not used to. When it comes to November and I'm swamped with more work than I know what to do with, I'll probably look back and wonder why I ever questioned my lack of work, but I don't know, I kind-of like school? I've gotten so used to the work, that I kind of like it keeping me busy? I was with a Chilean earlier this week, and when it got to asking me what I do during the week at home in the United States, I said I study. That's what I'm at school to do, at least during the week. He called me "matea," chilean slang for nerd. Seeing as some people here go out every night, the idea of studying 5 nights a week I guess would be different. I'm pretty sure I can handle being called a nerd. Classes here a lot different than at WashU, I have one that I really like, the other ones are okay. While i'm grateful for this new experience in a different school system, and I know that i will learn a lot about myself, which is more valuable than any factual information I may learn, I won't lie and say I don't miss the classes at WashU. Maybe this makes me a nerd? That's fine with me.

Thursday I went hiking in Cajon de Maipo, which is about an hour to an hour and a half from Santiago. We took the metro and then a collectivo, which is a taxi that has a designated route and set price. It was really easy to get to, and it was really nice to get out of the city for a day. The hike was for about 2 1/2 hours and I learned a few things:

1. my hiking shoes are not waterproof. I'm pretty sure they are still outside drying.

2. It's time for me to start going to the gym.

3. Just because there snow on the ground, doesn't mean the sun doesn't shine. I got back to my house, and the first comments were how my face was sunburned. I can't say I should be surprised.

We hiked to 'la meseta' which means plateau, and is the picture above on the right. Once we hiked back down we were starving and went searching for a place to eat lunch. We found this place that one of my friends had been do before, but apparently was usually closed during the week. I think it was at this campground type place, so we found a woman who worked there, and she told us the restaurant wasn't open, but since the chef was in there cooking for the weekend, they could open the restaurant for us. So we opened up a restaurant. On the way back in collectivo we listened to the best 80's mix I have ever heard. It was atleast 30 mins long, with probably about 40 different songs and managed to blend every song together really well.

Last night for one of my classes, I went to a movie which was a part of the Santiago Film festival. It was about the Mexican President Calles in the 1920's, and the documentary was made by the presidents great-granddaughter. It was interesting how she compared the situation of Mexico in the 1920's to the present situation in Mexico. I have been to the movies more in 2 months then all of sophomore year, and probably more. I don't get what is so appealing about going to the movies, but I have seen at least 5 in theaters. I saw the proposal last weekend (movies come here later than they do in the States), and while I was expecting it to be really bad, I laughed the whole time.

Tonight I'm learning how to make empanadas and the how to dance cueca, the national dance of Chile. The dance is supposed to imitate the courting ritual between a rooster and a hen. This is going to be interesting...